Frequently asked questions
Why is it different from ordinary grass seed?
When I was developing my grass seed, I visited a trial ground where they test the immediate as well as long term performance of mixes of grass seed sold by garden centres and DIY stores. I was shocked how badly some did, either in poor germination or patchy growth (most noticeably after the first year). Some, sold internationally as producing extra tough grass that can grow anywhere in any conditions, was amongst the worst. The other thing I hadn’t realised is that some producers change the mix of varieties in their grass seed every year according to which varieties of seed are cheaper on the commodity market. The name and look of the box stays the same but the contents (and performance) can vary dramatically. Appalled by this, I then talked to the world’s leading producers of grass seed and they helped me develop an extra premium mix of varieties that grow fast, producing a lawn that is hard wearing, copes with both drought and shade while being easy to maintain.
What seed is in the pack?
My special blend of grass seed contains a mix of varieties of fine leaved dwarf perennial ryegrass and creeping red fescue.
The seed has been specially treated with a coating of natural humates and humic acids, seaweed extract, natural sugars and vitamins to improve root growth and make the grass more resilient to stress and producing a greener, healthier lawn.
How do I sow a new lawn?
When to sow: You can sow my grass seed between March and October. For best results, sow in the spring from March to May and in the early autumn from mid September to mid October. Young grass should appear within 7-14 days if conditions are good.
Preparation: Remove perennial weeds, stones and rubbish before sowing. Dig to a depth of 15-22cm/6-9in. For the best quality lawn, top dress with a mix of peat, sand and loam. The proportions are dependent on your soil type. Produce a firm, level seed bed by raking and treading or rolling (you can use the roller on a lawnmower for this). Before sowing, leave the seed bed for a few weeks if possible. Destroy any weeds that emerge. Rake in Growmore 4-5 days before sowing the grass seed. The day before sowing, water thoroughly if the soil is dry and leave it to soak overnight.
Sowing: Divide the area into manageable sections (such as square metres/yards). Shake the box to mix the seed and then scatter evenly. Sow at a rate of 35g per sq metre (1.25 oz per sq yd). Sow half the seed from left to right then half from top to bottom for each section.
After sowing: rake the seed into the soil and lightly roll it or lightly firm it by walking over it and pressing the seed into the soil. If dry weather follows sowing, water regularly with a fine spray, keeping the seed bed constantly moist. Grass can be cut for the first time when it is 5-8cm (2-3in) high. A light trim is sufficient and as the grass develops the lawnmower should be adjusted to cut at an ideal cutting height of 25mm/1in, but never removing more than one third of the growth at any one time. For the very best looking lawn, feed regularly with Lawn Magic.
How can I transform an existing lawn?
Up to 25% of a lawn can die back every year which is why the professionals use a technique called ‘Over-seeding’ to renovate their grass. This easy technique can thicken your lawn by up to 50%! For the very best results, if possible, over seed your lawn using my grass seed once every year.
Preparation: 4-5 days before sowing, closely mow the lawn and then rake out or use a scarifier to remove layers of dead matted grass and thatch. Spike the lawn with a fork , to a depth of at least 15cm/6in to reduce the effects of compaction and brush in a top dressing( a sandy loam available from garden centres). Rake in some Growmore fertiliser. If the ground is dry, water the lawn the day before over-seeding.
Sowing: Scatter my grass seed evenly across the lawn to ensure a good blend with existing grass, apply at a rate of 25g per sq m ( 0.75 oz per sq yd).
After sowing: rake the area so that the seed comes into contact with the moist ground. This will help improve germination. Lightly roll if possible. If dry weather follows, water regularly with a fine spray, keeping the grass constantly moist.
How do I repair patches in lawns?
Patches in lawns can appear for a number of reasons and can look really unsightly. It’s easy to repair them by re-seeding. There’s a double benefit, it’ll stop weeds growing in the patches, and of course, your lawn will look much better. My grass seed is particularly good for patching and costs much less than special ‘Patch packs’ sold by some companies.
What to do : Water well if the ground is dry. Lightly rake over the patch to loosen the soil. Shake the pack and scatter my grass seed at a rate of 35g per sq metre (1.25 oz per sq yd). Cover the seed with a light sprinkling of top soil or compost to hide it from the birds. Water in with a watering can fitted with a fine rose.
When can I start to apply Lawn Magic?
To give your newly seeded lawn the best possible start, apply my Lawn Magic lawn feed as soon as the grass has germinated. For this very first application, apply the feed at half the normal rate (dilute 50ml of Lawn Magic per gallon/4.5 litres). Four weeks later, apply Lawn Magic again using the standard dilution rate (100ml per gallon/4.5 litres).
What area does the pack cover?
The 650g pack covers up to 25sq metres when renovating a lawn, 18sq metres when sowing a new lawn or 39 patches (up to 45cm diameter).